BATTLE MECHANICS
Oh joy. This is why this thread was made in the first place, everyone had their own version. Instead of comprising to a mutually agreed method of executing battle, they just said they'd go with mine. Meaning, they have no excuse if they don't like it, since they just left me to do it. So then, here's my version of the battle system, now known as the OFFICIAL version of the battle system.
Let's start with the basics, shall we? The layout.
Your HP: 100/100
MetennaA: 40/40
MetennaB: 40/40
MetennaC: 40/40
[X][X][m]
[X][m][X]
[m][X][X]
[X][X][X]
[X][B][X]
B = Bob the Super Denpa Dude
m = Metenna
Active
Defeated
Cards:
[Attack+10 ][PlsmaGun1 ][ParlyzPlus]
[WideSword ][PlsmaGun1 ][Attack+10 ]
Hey, guess what?
FIXED WIDTH SPACING IS YOUR FRIEND! GMs, if you don't use it, it will look like crap! I guarantee you! For this, the best font for the job in this case is
Courier New. There is one exception, but we'll get to that in a sec. Now then, see the formatting? Here, let's look at it -
Denpa Person's HP: X/Y
Enemy1: X/Y
Enemy2: X/Y
Enemy3: X/Y
[ ][ ][E]
[ ][E][ ]
[e][ ][ ] <- General Positions, in Courier New font
[ ][ ][ ]
[ ][B][ ]
B = Bob the Super Denpa Dude
e = standard enemy
E = giant enemy
E = Denpa Human enemy
Active
Defeated
Cards:
[Attack+10 ][PlsmaGun1 ][ParlyzPlus] <- Cards in Courier New
[WideSword ][PlsmaGun1 ][Attack+10 ] <- so it's easier on them
So the field and cards are in Courier New so that everything lines up nicely. Active combatants are in
BLUE, whereas defeated combatants are in
RED. There is also notation at the bottom showing this, as a reminder.
Now then, formatting for enemies:
The first letter of the character/enemy's name is always used. The formatting of this depends on one of THREE things:
Standard Enemies are lowercase.
Giant Enemies are UPPERCASE.
Denpa-Humans are UPPERCASE and
bold
"Hey, but you said in your last post that Courier New doesn't show up well bold!"
It doesn't, but I also said that
FixedSys is the same size and give a bold appearance, even when not in bold. So instead of bolding it on the field, which needs to be fixed width, it should be changed to
FixedSys font. HOWEVER... In the notation beneath, it should but be CAPPED and
bolded.
When a combatant (enemy or ally) is defeated, in the next pulse their notation will turn red. In the pulse after that, they will not be represented.
What about Terrain?
[ ][ ][E]
[ ][E][ ]
[e][ ][ ]
[x][x][x]
[ ][B][ ]
B = Bob the Super Denpa Dude
e = standard enemy
E = giant enemy
E = Denpa Human enemy
x = Cube of Ice
x = Junk Cube
x = Rock
See those colors? You know, the ones on the brackets? That shows what terrain is on the field.
Green is Grass. 2x damage from fire, gradual healing for Wood element
Purple is Poison. HP drains when on them.
Orange is Stun. When hit on one, paralysis affect is triggered.
Brown is Sand. Barriers/Guards are disabled. Wind attacks will do double damage on these panels.
Aqua is Ice. Elec does double damage, if hit with water it freezes you, and it's slippery. Only Aqua element or floating will not slip on it.
Red is Anti-Elemental. If you attack something on that panel with Heat, Aqua, Elec, or Wood, you will receive the damage of the attack instead.
Grey is Anti-Weaponry. If you attack something on that panel with a Sword, Cursor, Breaking, or Wind attack, you will receive the damage of the attack instead.
Yellow is a Holy Panel. On that panel, you will take less damage.
Only the brackets will be colored, though. Be sure to notate what color is what to remind them what it is!
Keep in mind, a panel is not literal. Rather, it's an area. You don't move from one panel to another, you move in terms of feet and yards (or meters, if that floats your boat). Think of the terrain on the panel like a patch of land. For example, for Grass, it'd be like for that area the grass is up to your knees or something. For sand, you're walking on a sandy area, and can't keep a good footing to defend. For stun panels, you'll feel your hair stand on end, like when the air is staticy. Similar things are true of other panels, as well.
As such, also keep in mind that Obstacles can be used strategically! Obstacles are shown as a little x. The color indicates the type.
Black is a rock. They cannot be moved, but can be broken with a breaking attack.
Aqua is a Cube of Ice. They can be moved by striking them with a fist chip or ability, and do 200 Aqua Element damage when they collide with an enemy. They can also be broken with a breaking chip.
Brown is a Junk Cube. They can be moved by striking them with a fist chip or ability, and do 200 Break Element damage when they collide with an enemy. They can be shattered with a cursor type chip.
Be sure to notate what they are at the bottom, and keep them colored!
As for the cards, keep them in their 10 character limit, in
Fixed Width so they line up correctly, and color them according to:
Black - White, Favorite, and Brotherband Cards
Orange - Standard Cards
Blue - Mega Cards
Red - Giga Cards
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Card Stuffs.
Yay. This is EXACTLY why I told everyone to number their cards. Now the GM can have a much easier time selecting cards at random. The first time this happens is the first time cars load - When you denpa-henkan. However, it doesn't show up until the first time you battle while a Denpa Human. As such, when entering the first battle, six cards are selected at random. A card that has already been selected cannot be selected again, so each card must be rolled for individually using an RNG. This is easily done by the following process:
where X = number of cards. At first this is 30. Up to 3 more can be added, one for each *card. 1 card for each PC Brotherband.
1st card = RNG of 1dX
2nd card = RNG of 1dX-1, where 1st card is not counted.
3rd card = RNG of 1dX-2, where previous cards are not counted.
and so on until
6th card = RNG of 1dX-5, where previous cards are not counted.
As battle ensues, additional cards are loaded for each turn. This means that at the next turn, you'll be rolling for the 7th, 8th, 9th, etc... cards. The number you need is equal to the number that were selected in the previous turn. If you run out of cards, no more cards can be selected.
AFTER battle, the cards are reset. HOWEVER, the cards already loaded remain. This means that what is left is ready for use in the next battle, and by using the RNG, the GM will need to fill in the rest of the 6 spots, as if setting up for a new battle. Should the new battle come to fruit, then you already have a group of 6 cards ready.
IMPORTANT: IF a brother card is selected at the RNG, you must do a 1d6 to determine what card roulette showed up as. Also note the brother card itself is not actually a card, but is essense of the bond between brothers, manifesting itself in card form.
Cards are drawn across. This means:
[FirstCard ][SecondCard][ThirdCard ]
[FourthCard][FifthCard ][SixthCard ]
Also, at each new turn, the cards not selected before shift to the left. New cards are added across. So if First, Third, and Fifth were used (assuming two of them were white cards), the result would be:
[SecondCard][SeventhCrd][EighthCard]
[FourthCard][SixthCard ][NinthCard ]
Example: (using the sample card list above)
1st card - 1d33 rolled, got 13.
[Gatling1 .]**
2nd card - 1d32 rolled, got 4.
[AirSpred1 ]**
3rd card - 1d31 rolled, got 6. 4 ignored. 7.
[HeatBall1 ]**
4th card - 1d30 rolled, got 16. 4, 7, 13 ignored. 19.
[Recover30 ]
5th card - 1d29 rolled, got 21. 4, 7, 13, 19 ignored. 25.
[GrassStage]
6th card - 1d28 rolled, got 23. 4, 7, 13, 19, 25 ignored. 28.
[ParlyzPlus]
Card layout is:
[Gatling1 .][AirSpred1 ][HeatBall1 ]
[Recover30 ][GrassStage][ParlyzPlus]
Gatling1, ParlyzPlus, GrassStage, and HeatBall1 are selected. Battle Reaches turn 2.
4 cards used last turn, 4 new cards selected.
1st card - 1d27 rolled, got 21. 4, 7, 13, 19, 25 ignored. 26.
[GrassStage]
2nd card - 1d26 rolled, got 6. 4, 7 ignored. 8.
[HeatBall1 ]
3rd card - 1d25 rolled, got 17. 4, 7, 8, 13, 19 ignored. 22.
[Invisible ]
4th card - 1d24 rolled, got 17. 4, 7, 8, 13, 19, 22 ignored. 23.
[IceStage .]
Card layout is now:
[AirSpred1 ][GrassStage][HeatBall1 ]
[Recover30 ][Invisible ][IceStage .]
Invisible, AirSpred1, and HeatBall1 are used. Battle ends. Cards are reset, holes are filled. Three cards remain (26, 19,and 23), three new are drawn.
1st card - 1d30 rolled, got 19. 19 ignored. 20. [Barrier . ]
2nd card - 1d29 rolled, got 18. [Recover30 ]**
3rd card - 1d28 rolled, got 16.
[Recover10 ]
Card layout in case of next battle will be:
[GrassStage][Barrier . ][Recover30 ]
[Recover30 ][IceStage .][Recover10 ]
If you need a Random Number Generator, I personally use Rautha's Dice Roller. It's nothing really special, but it does what it needs to. Google it to find it.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Okay, notation was easy. Here's the more... difficult part. Pulses and Turns.
A TURN is the time between card draws.
A PULSE is a standardized period of time in combat. There are several pulses within a turn. For example, in old school turned based RPGS like Final Fantasy, it's One Round. This means that when you select your cards for use in combat, they will carry over from one pulse to the next, until the turn is finished.
There are three types of battles, each with their own Pulse/Turn ratio.
STANDARD BATTLES are those random battles against weaker enemies. The pulse/turn ratio is 2/1, meaning every THREE pulses, a turn will be concluded. Turn-Pulse-Pulse, Turn-Pulse-Pulse, etc...
BOSS BATTLES are battles against a Denpa Human. Humans are smarter than basic viruses (usually) and make for more difficult, faster-paced opponents. As such, this is reflected by having more pulses to a turn. Specifically, it's a 4/1 ratio, meaning every FIVE pulses, a turn will be concluded. Turn-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse, Turn-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse, etc...
CLIMAX BATTLES are Final-boss type battles. They also mark the end of a person's "Story Arc", and the transition to a new one. These battles, as they are more difficult than boss battles, will have a 6/1 Ratio, meaning every SEVEN pulses, a turn will be concluded. Turn-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse, Turn-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse-Pulse, etc...
So then, what does this mean? It means you have to follow rule 5: PLAYERS MUST ACKNOWLEDGE CORRECT PASSAGE OF TIME. If you use all your cards right off the bat, you had no time to move or aim. This forces you to actually roleplay, rather than just say what you do. This also gives the enemy a fighting chance, and encourages more use of strategy in battle. Overall, the Pulse/Turn system will only improve the RP, and keep it from being a mindless kill-fest.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
What's okay, and what's not.
Enigma, forgive me for doing this, but I'm using you as an example.
I will equip PlasmaGun1, LongSword, and Recover10. Stun attack again, dashing left and right continually. When he gets stunned, hit him with the PlasmaGun1, lock on and hit him with the LongSword. Recover10 then pull out my staff. I now use melee attacks which have a x10 multiplier to my standard attack, which means 20 damage per hit. Dash left and right, but hit upon opportunity. Dematerialise when he comes in close.
Let's brutally rip this to pieces, shall we? ^-^
Notice how the ENTIRE thing ain't in character. What's more, he goes off and uses all the cards at once, and instead of taking the action/reaction approach, he shows a strategy. That won't fly. In fact, it's the reason for shifting to the Pulse/Turn system. Let's look at what it should be!
As Paladin Holy attacks, Enigma leaps back and phases out just in time, the attack passing through him. Quickly choosing the PlasmaGun1, LongSword, and Revovery10 cards, Enigma turns back and faces Paladin Holy, sending a cluster of three stun shots his way, following it up by firing the Plasma Gun.
Notice how everything flows better? And how overall, it's more fun to read? Also notice how it gives Paladin Holy a chance to react and attempt to dodge the attacks. Overall, this kind of thing encourages good roleplaying, and as such, when you DO enter a fight, try not to win, but instead to tell the tale of a good battle. It'll look and sound cooler that way, and be much more enjoyable overall.